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All Forums >> [Bottle Forums] >> Digging and Finding >> Time to buy a probe

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Time to buy a probe - 8/13/2003 1:05:34 AM    David Osborn   Posts: 47 Joined: 6/17/2003 Status: offline I think I was advised to contact another member here a while back about having a probe made for me. Who was the guy, please ? I' m looking for something to help me locate the dumps and private pits here in Omaha. Not ready for privvies yet. After reading O' Dells booklet on it, it sounds like resurfacing my entire yard with new sod would be about as taxing. -Dave. Post #: 1

RE: Time to buy a probe - 8/13/2003 10:49:15 AM    jaken   Posts: 16 Joined: 6/26/2003 Status: offline I make spring steel probes for folks. Just let me know what the specs are and I will put one together for you and ship it. (in reply to David Osborn) Post #: 2

RE: Time to buy a probe - 8/15/2003 2:02:05 AM    IRISH   Posts: 1238 Joined: 11/23/2002 From: cockatoo Australia Status: offline David, privvies/dunny holes/cesspits may be hard work but they are very much worth finding . Also any welding shop will make up a probe for you if you cannot find anyone in your area, just make sure they weld a " knob" or big ball bearing on the end or you will never get it in or out of firm ground. (in reply to David Osborn) Post #: 3

RE: Time to buy a probe - 8/15/2003 11:57:54 AM    jaken   Posts: 16 Joined: 6/26/2003 Status: offline Only problem I' ve found with welding shops is their $65 an hour with 2 hour minimum plus material. Thats why I started making my own and selling 4 footers for $30 plus shipping. (in reply to David Osborn) Post #: 4

RE: Time to buy a probe - 8/15/2003 12:53:01 PM    Guest A FEW THINGS I HAVE FOUND OVER THE YEARS ABOUT PROBE MAKING I WOULD LIKE TO PASS ALONG. ONLY USE HIGH QUALITY SPRING STEEL!! IF IT IS TEMPERED TOO HARD IT CAN SHATTER IS IT TRIES TO BEND. AND YOU COULD GET IMPAILED BY FALLING INTO YOUR PROBE. HAD A FRIEND WHO DID THIS , HE WAS NOT HURT BAD ,BUT COULD HAVE BEEN . IF NOT TEMPERED ENOUGH IT WILL KINK. AND PUT FRICTION ON THE SHAFT MAKING IT HARD TO PUSH OR PULL BACK. ALWAYS BRING THE SHAFT ALL THE WAY THRU THE HANDLE, THEY BREAK LESS OFTEN . WELD AT THE TOP AND BOTTOM OF THE HANDLE. USE A PIPE SIZE OF A BIKE HANDLEBAR SO YOU CAN PUT A COUPLE OF GRIPS ON IT. NOT JUST FOR COMFORT, BUT INCASE YOU PROBE A ELECTRIC WIRE. MAKE THE TIP BY SLIDING A GRADE 8 NUT ABOUT 3/4 IN. UP FROM THE BOTTOM AND WELDING ONLY ON THE TIP SIDE OF THE NUT. THEN JUST GRIND A CONE SHAPED POINT ON IT. A GOOD TIP SHOULD BE NOT MUCH WIDER THAN THE SHAFT. LETS SAY LESS THAN 1/8 IN. AROUND THE EDGE. I HAVE USED BALLBEARING PROBES AND DONT CARE FOR THEM IN HARDER SOIL, BUT IF YOU ARE JUST STARTING OUT IT MIGHT BE BEST .YOU WILL MINIMIZE BREAKAGE OF BOTTLES. I DONT THINK THAT A BALL PROBE BRINGS UP ASH OR ORGANICS SAMPLES AS WELL AS A BULLET OR CONE TIP WILL. SOME TIMES YOU NEED TO PULL UP A LITTLE OF THE BOTTOM UP AND LOOK AT THE BACK OF YOUR PROBE TIP TO SEE IF IT IS WOOD ASH OR WHATEVER. USE A 4' OR SHORTER PROBE FOR GENERAL PROBING . IF YOU NEED TO GO DEEPER GET A 6' OF 7' MADE, BUT PROBE WITH THE SHORTY FIRST THEN FOLLOW THE HOLE WITH A LONGER ONE. I HAVE A 7' AND 8' BUT DONT FIND THE NEED FOR EITHER MUCH. PROBING CAN BE HARDER THAN THE DIG SO CHOOSE A PROBE THAT FEELS GOOD TO YOU. I CAN ONLY PROBE FOR A FEW HOURS AT A TIME AND I LOOSE THE TOUCH AND HAVE TO BREAK FOR A WHILE. DIGGERJEFF (in reply to jaken)   Post #: 5

Probe construction.......... - 8/15/2003 2:08:27 PM    jaken   Posts: 16 Joined: 6/26/2003 Status: offline Different folks like different features on their probes. I hunt with a couple guys that use 2" dia. pipe for handles. They swear that they can feel more and the larger pipe is easier on their hands. Personally I like the 1" dia. handle. I can supply either. Some of my customers want a big blob of weld on the tip, others like the bullet shaped tip like diggerjeff talks about. Personally I like a small collar or steel welded back a couple inches from the tip. This lets you start the probe in the ground easier. I do my handles differently than most I have seen. For a piece of 3/8" spring steel I drill one side of the handle 3/8" and the other side 5/16" . I then grind a slight taper on the end of the rod. It slides into the handle and the ground tip protrudes through the 5/16 hole. Both are then welded.....if the welds break (which is a very remote possibility) the rod can' t come through the handle and give you a new belly button. (in reply to David Osborn) Post #: 6

RE: Probe construction.......... - 8/15/2003 2:37:59 PM    Guest JAKEN SOUNDS LIKE YOU MAKE A NICE PROBE. AND YOU ARE RIGHT , IT IS ALL ABUOT WHAT WORKS BEST FOR YOU, OR WHAT IS MOST COMFORTABLE. JUST USE GOOD QUALITY SPRING STEEL AND TRY A FEW TIP STYLES UNTILL YOU FINDS WHAT SUITS YOU BEST. NEXT TIME I WEAR ONE OUT, I WILL GIVE ONE OF YOURS A TRY. GET A PHOTO OF YOUR PROBE AND WE WILL SEE IF ADMIN. CAN POST A PIC AND AN EMAIL LINK IN THE RESOURSES PAGE. OR PUT IT IN THE BUY, SWAP OR SELL PAGES. THANKS FOR THE CHAT. DIGGERJEFF (in reply to jaken)   Post #: 7

RE: Time to buy a probe - 8/18/2003 8:36:12 AM    jaken   Posts: 16 Joined: 6/26/2003 Status: offline Thanks diggerjeff, Anyone who would like to see a picture of my probes can go to: http:www.varelichunter.com and got to the " Spring Steel Probes" page. I have some pictures there of some of my probes. (in reply to David Osborn) Post #: 8

RE: Time to buy a probe - 10/15/2003 6:15:56 AM    treasurehunt   Posts: 310 Joined: 10/14/2003 From: Dearborn, Michigan Status: offline what is this o'dells booket david osborn talked about? (in reply to David Osborn) Post #: 9

RE: Time to buy a probe - 10/15/2003 9:44:43 AM    Guest http://www.bottlebooks.com/ diggerjeff (in reply to treasurehunt)   Post #: 10

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