capsoda
Posts: 7703
Joined: 11/15/2005
From: Seminole,Alabama, USA
Status: offline
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I don't think I would use a die grinder, especially if you want a really smooth finish.
You will need a jitter bug either electric or air will do. An orbital sander is always handy and plenty of block and tube sanders. Sometime I use pvc pipe in different lenghts and sizes for all the contours. Take as much of the rust off as you can with 80 or 100 grit and progress through 120, 220 and 320 for the final. Work as much metal as you can and use an epoxy primer sealer with good build up properties. Once primed use black spray bombs to lightly cover the surface and then on with the blocking with 320. Where ever the black paint shows after blocking is a low area. Apply another coat of primer and do it again and again and again until the surface is smooth. Alot of folks go for the skim coat of filler but I don't. You can use filler and scratch putty after you prime with epoxy primer so don't put filler on bare metal. A build up of ptimer instead of a scim coat of filler will last many years longer. Progress from 320 to 400 to 600 and finer still if you are going for the show quality finish.
Never heard of anyone using a FireBird front clip befor but if that is what you have go for it but make sure you get everything lined up good before you tack it. take lots of measurements from the FireBird and trans fer then to the frame you are using. Tack it good and then make plenty of measurements to make sure it is lined up good befor hard welding.
If you are just using the suspension parts on the origanal frame you will need to buy a kit. Surf the net because there are kits for everything and you will certianly find what you want. Make measurements to make sure your frame is square before you do any welding and lf there are alot of rivets holding the main rails to the cross members or the X member weld thos buggers up after you make sure the frame is square. Measure twice, weld once.
Might want to check out Eastwood Tools for some sanding blocks and supplies and welding extras as well as all kinds of paint supplys and Chevs of the 40s for sheet metal parts like floors and such. Alot of the body styles were alike and it is always easer to make a Chevy floor fit than it is to make a new one. If you are channeling the body it will be easy enough to make your own floor.
That ought to get you started.
< Message edited by capsoda -- 1/14/2008 2:26:37 AM >
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Warren
Diggin down in Dixie, USA
Work is for people who don't dig bottles
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http://www.panhandlecruisers.org/
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