stinger haut
Posts: 518
Joined: 6/7/2006 Status: offline
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Howsit Warren, don't get mad, but I thought that you guys didn't really get any surf. That is good to hear that it can jack up to a large size. There is a guy who lives in Texas and every year like clock work, I would take his order for a new board. For over 18 years every year he would order a board. I never met him in person until I moved back to the islands. He came over and flew down to the eastside of the Big Island. We don't have sandy beaches here. Just rocks, lava and coral with a lot of steep cliffs. A break called bayfront that can hold twenty foot plus easily was firing at about 15 ft island the day we went surfing. The ride can be up to 3 minutes (no kidding) if you make the three sections on the reef. You have to turn high on the take off and just punp as fast as you can down the line, no cutbacks. He about fainted when he saw it breaking that day. So, I said lets just surf the inside at about 8 ft. He really loved it. He didn't do too badly either. He got tubed standing up and made it out. John is his name and surfing Da Islands is going to be his game, when he retires in 2 years. Funny thing, he thought that locals would eat him for breakfast. I told him no, just be quiet, don't take off on anyone, smile, share the waves with others and try and take off further back than anyone else. Don't complain if they take off on you, then you'll earn our respect. John did well and my buddies told him that in time he could be one local. Pono
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