Cooling a drip or a repair

[J.R. Collector]

I see this all the time and I believe Red used to tell me that it is a method for cooling thick runny hot glass. Since he isn't here anymore, I was hoping for clarification. I should pay attention more. I took a picture off the inside as best as I could to show the thick bump ( drip) of extra glass inside.

 

[Robby Raccoon]

Sadly, Red has passed away. But I'm not sure that inner bit would have a notable effect on cooling the glass. Honestly, you really don't want the glass to cool quickly. It must be very slowly cooled and annealed to prevent cracking or fracturing. I'm thinking it may have had a repair to the mould which resulted in the bottles having a thicker layer of glass in that general area.

 

[J.R. Collector]

Sadly, Red has passed away. But I'm not sure that inner bit would have a notable effect on cooling the glass. Honestly, you really don't want the glass to cool quickly. It must be very slowly cooled and annealed to prevent cracking or fracturing. I'm thinking it may have had a repair to the mould which resulted in the bottles having a thicker layer of glass in that general area.

Red was my neighbor/ bottle club member. Every time we would talk he was so full of information it was hard to absorb it all. I do miss all his post and responses. Thanks Robby Raccoon for the knowledge. It does make sense that cooling to fast would cause more serious issues. Seeing the huge blob inside and thinking about what you're saying , it does make sense that it's a blob of glass to repair an issue.

 

[treeguyfred]

Red was my neighbor/ bottle club member. Every time we would talk he was so full of information it was hard to absorb it all. I do miss all his post and responses.

I wish I had the opportunity to actually speak to him

 

[treeguyfred]

In our area we had David Graci and still have folks like Tom Leavey and Jim Jack, Sadly we lost Henry Gabelmann and it just keeps happening that folks with long time experience and knowledge from early days are leaving us for the Elysian Fields.

 

[treeguyfred]

I'll tell you what many of our old timers / Long timers would tell me the, maybe dozen times I've brought bottles that I had dug to our club meetings that had that thick bumps and heavy runs or drips inside. It's just that the craftsman bottle blower took too large a gather on his blow pipe but "Just made it work". But because of the larger than normal amount of glass it took longer to set up in annealing and had some slumping occur.
~Fred

 

[sandchip]

Lord, it's rearing its head again.

This debate goes back to the old blue pages and whether it can still be dug up, I don't know. Red and I went 'round and 'round on this issue for about two years (in a friendly way) before he finally agreed with me that it's simply where the gather was pinched between mold halves, the mold opened, the gather rotated slightly, mold closed again and the bottle blown. The gaffer and apprentice were both working very rapidly; they had to, so this was bound to happen occasionally. The pinched part cooled ever so slightly, stiffening from contact with the slightly cooler area between the mold halves, so that after the correction was made, it didn't melt back into the surface of the bottle completely. Yours is not as pronounced as some, but that's all it is. All this "half-leaf mold repair" mess is fallacy. You'll also see in many descriptions of bottles for sale (and yes, by many of our experts), "...some chipping along the seam where glass extruded from the mold and was chipped off... ". This is the same thing. Glass does not "extrude" between mold halves. It is extremely viscous (not runny), and even the big bad wolf wouldn't have the lungs to make this occur. Fins occasionally seen at the juncture of the neck and shoulder are the same thing. If the glass "extruded" between mold halves, why would we only see it in small areas, different areas, and not on nearly every bottle, and along the entire length of the mold lines since the blowing air pressure was equally applied on the interior surface of the gather? Also, the molds were not as crudely manufactured as some may believe. Hope this helps.

 

[embe]

some interesting info, thanks for the detail

 

[J.R. Collector]

Lord, it's rearing its head again.

This debate goes back to the old blue pages and whether it can still be dug up, I don't know. Red and I went 'round and 'round on this issue for about two years (in a friendly way) before he finally agreed with me that it's simply where the gather was pinched between mold halves, the mold opened, the gather rotated slightly, mold closed again and the bottle blown. The gaffer and apprentice were both working very rapidly; they had to, so this had to happen occasionally. The pinched part cooled ever so slightly, stiffening from contact with the slightly cooler area between the mold halves, so that after the correction was made, it didn't melt back into the surface of the bottle completely. Yours is not as pronounced as some, but that's all it is. All this "half-leaf mold repair" mess is fallacy. You'll also see in many descriptions of bottles for sale (and yes, by many of our experts), "...some chipping along the seam where glass extruded from the mold and was chipped off... ". This is the same thing. Glass does not "extrude" between mold halves. It is extremely viscous (not runny), and even the big bad wolf wouldn't have the lungs to make this occur. Fins occasionally seen at the juncture of the neck and shoulder are the same thing. If the glass "extruded" between mold halves, why would we only see it in small areas, different areas, and not on nearly every bottle, and along the entire length of the mold lines since the blowing air pressure was equally applied on the interior surface of the gather? Also, the molds were not as crudely manufactured as some may believe. Hope this helps.

This is great information. Screen shot and saved. Thanks