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psmason73

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how can you get rid of crate ware on straight side cokes?ware that tumbling wont remove?dont trust myself with the dremel tool yet.i have heard sandpaper.anyone tried that with good results? if so how?
 

LC

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Don't know if you took some super fine sand paper and sanded it as smooth as you can get it first and then tumbled it whether it would do the job or not .
 

Plumbata

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I don't think it would be worth it, in general, to try removing the case-wear. Often underneath the worn areas are conchoidal fish-eye dings or fleabites which extend relatively deep into the glass, so even of the surface wear was removed those dings would still be visible, or even more visible than before.

Perhaps you could try dabbing some deep-penetrating epoxy like HXTAL on the areas you would like to work on. That alone might clear up the case-wear enough to make the bottles more attractive. If not, it may fill the chonchoidal dings and make them less visible after the wear is removed.

Freshly mixed HXTAL has a very thin viscosity. If it is too thin, let it stand (covered) and it will thicken over a period of several hours. The bond strength of thick or thin HXTAL is the same but various gluing applications may require varied viscosities of the HXTAL. Thin HXTAL will penetrate cracks for some repair applications, making them virtually disappear from view. The best results are obtained when the glass is warmed to about 120°F (a hair dryer or some other heat source is reasonable if the object is not heated too much or too quickly). Then apply a drop of the freshly mixed HXTAL onto the crack. If the crack absorbs sufficient glue the crack will virtually disappear and the remaining HXTAL should be wiped off the surface only with a clean clothe or paper towel. Don’t forget that the glue in the crack will still take a long time to cure so just let it sit for a week before continuing any other work on that piece.

From http://www.hisglassworks.com/faq/idx.php/19/050/article/
 

cowseatmaize

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Oh Oh, here we go. The big conversation to clean or not to clean.
Regardless of that question ask yourself how much of the bottle will be lost after sanding, grinding and tumbling. It may be more than it seams. That's just a thought for food.[:)]
 

LC

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I sprayed a hutch soad once with clear laquer, it worked out pretty good . Wish I had never done it now though , will have a heck of a time getting the blasted paint back off should I decide to do so .
 

LC

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Here is the hutch soda I sprayed that I made mention of . It was not extremely stained , but you could not see through it . It looks pretty good in my opinion , but again , if I had it to do over , I probably would not do it . And now that I think about it , this has nothing to do with case wear , so I do not know if it would have the same effect on case wear or not . Sorry for the wasted post .

7F245819526F41D08B7E527471D94739.jpg
 

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Plumbata

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ORIGINAL: L C
Sorry for the wasted post .

Certainly not a wasted post! I bet it would work pretty darn well on case wear as far as it goes. Oil would work temporarily but would have to be reapplied (less of an issue when it is on a babe at the beach versus a bottle [;)])

That is a good looking hutch BTW, did you dig it?
 

dvess

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I have used the glass cook top cleaner/polish and also the white magic eraser sponge works great on digging marks.
 

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