They just threw them on the ground when they removed them. If you have access you can look in the ditch along side anywhere they were used. Might be buried from time but most likely there in rural areas.
The wire is usually still wrapped around some. I removed some rusted wire off of this one. Also sometimes the rod rusted off inside. Good idea is what I mean.
I never use a metal detector but I should. I'm generally using a 2 prong pitchfork and I do find piles around trees or at the pole bases but lots of tossed glass with no wire I'd miss otherwise. But to focus solely on cache hunting a metal detector would be the way to go. Also SCUBA diving under old RR bridges, alongside RR tracks and alongside old roads. There's lots of stuff in the water.
You should post pictures!!
I want one of those handheld metal detecting stick probes they use in the dirt.
Yes, the pin pointers work great. Very handy. I have a Mine Lab Pro Find and it is smarter than I am. Ha ha.
You can find them almost every where along railroad tracts to antique shops.They're not worth a lot unless it's a rare color or something.Just don't pay a lot for them!!
I have found thousands of insulators in the wild. I could write a book on it. I think knowing too much about it can be crippling because there are exceptions to every rule. I will give you a few fundamental pointers and then you would have to email me or call if you really want to learn. Much of the digging I did was years ago when research involved the library since there was no internet. So here are a few tips. 1. HOMEWORK HELPS THE HUNT! If you are looking for threadless or old stuff the first thing you need to know is which side of the tracks the poles were on. It gives you a 50% better chance of finding what you are looking for. I used to go to the library and find old photos of the railroad stations. You could then see what side of the tracks the poles were on. They can switch sides, but normally stay on the same side. When in doubt pick the leeward side based upon the weather patterns since the would prefer the poles fall away from the tracks in the event of a storm. 2. Find the pole spacing. Is it 32 poles per mile or 34? The more wires on the pole, the closer the spacing usually is. 3. Metal detectors are good for finding the tie wires that were often left on the insulators or near them if disposed of in a pile. 4. Two tine pitch forks are good and can be made from a ten tine fork. Make sure you straighten the tines for easier probing. 5. Potato hoes are my favorite tool for digging. A pruner and spade also come in handy. 6. Learn siltation rates. Deciduous trees can add an inch of soil every 10 or so years. Conifers add less. If it is on hill, the rates are diminished proportionally to the steepness of the slope of the hill. 7. Habits of the lines are also important. Some companies kept the insulators, some dropped them in old pole holes, some just dropped them anywhere, and some dumped them in little piles in strategically out-of-sight places. 8. I bring red and yellow duct tape with me if I am really going to work a line. Yellow means I found a stub or pole hole. Red means I found threadless glass. I put the tape where I can see it from the tracks or rail bed so I know where I was and I can also figure out the spacing of the poles. 58 of my paces = 30 poles per mile. 9. There are many good books and maps out there on this as well. Wiring a Continent, The Telegraph in America, Electricity and the Electric Telegraph, In Search of Threadless, History, Theory, and Practice of the Electric Telegraph, and of course the Poor's Manuals area all good. (SEE PHOTOS)
