Digging at the Whitall Tatum factory?

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epackage

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Sorry Red, not sure what I was responding too or doing but I was asleep when those posts were made and have no idea what the heck happened...Jim
 

baltbottles

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Philadelphia museum of art
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I read a glassblower's diary once. It was from the late 1860s. Unfortunately it contained no glass secrets. All it had was when he woke up each day, how the weather was, and I think he went to a dance one Saturday night and played baseball another day.
I have some molds and have experimented with them a little. I've used aluminum and iron. The aluminum mold I used three times to make a bottle with a rest of about 20 minutes in-between each bottle. Each turned out better than the last, each time with less whittle and more definition to the design. The iron mold I used three times to press an object, with about 5 minutes of rest in-between each piece. The first was whittled and didn't fill completely, the second was pretty good, and the third looked the best but nearly stuck to the mold. I have the impression in my mind that molds need to be the right temperature between too chilled with no detail, and too hot where the glass sticks. Iron pontils, after all, are iron too, that's stuck to the glass.
I read somewhere that Fenton's snap cases were brushed with lime to prevent sticking.
I also saw a patent from the 1880s or so where someone had the idea to have a core of graphite-rich iron as the interior of a cast iron mold.
Molds of the 1850s seem to have been thin like the Coventry mold but iron like later molds. The Philadelphia museum of art has some on its website, if you search. They have a Jenny Lind mold, barrel bitters, booze, and some others I remember.

Those molds are amazing.

It sounds like from your glass blowing experience the mold needs to be at the proper temperature for bottles to be correct. Can we see some pictures of your molds and of the pieces you have blown.

Chris
 

RED Matthews

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Hi epackage - I don't know what happened It just didn't cut and paste properly. I went on to explain about a couple other foundries and all I can say is that sometimes when I cut and paste from Microsoft Word to the control V for these forum notes - it does strange things.
Sorry RED Matthews
 

RED Matthews

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Hi, I didn't find the original draft. Here is another list I did find.

Mold Equipment Metals.doc
BinneyDV metal: 15% Ni, 12% Al, 6% Zn. & Balance Cu.
Binney Foundry 51C metal: A mold iron that had 1/8th bronze in the melt.
And had a secret annealing process used.
Kelley Foundry # 4 Mold Iron
Nodular Iron
Overmyer Mold Company Mold Iron
Bronze
Coast Metals 50 B castings and powder.
Dameron Alloy Foundries HR metal Rc 30 40 50 w/ some age hardening alloy ??
Wall Colmony Company Cast nickel alloys and powder fed metals.

For several years I sold special cast alloys to the worlds glass industry for DAMERON Alloy Foundries.
RED Matthews
 

tigue710

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(in reply to kungfufighter)
[Send Private Message]
ORIGINAL: KentOhio

I read a glassblower's diary once. It was from the late 1860s. Unfortunately it contained no glass secrets. All it had was when he woke up each day, how the weather was, and I think he went to a dance one Saturday night and played baseball another day.
I have some molds and have experimented with them a little. I've used aluminum and iron. The aluminum mold I used three times to make a bottle with a rest of about 20 minutes in-between each bottle. Each turned out better than the last, each time with less whittle and more definition to the design. The iron mold I used three times to press an object, with about 5 minutes of rest in-between each piece. The first was whittled and didn't fill completely, the second was pretty good, and the third looked the best but nearly stuck to the mold. I have the impression in my mind that molds need to be the right temperature between too chilled with no detail, and too hot where the glass sticks. Iron pontils, after all, are iron too, that's stuck to the glass.
I read somewhere that Fenton's snap cases were brushed with lime to prevent sticking.
I also saw a patent from the 1880s or so where someone had the idea to have a core of graphite-rich iron as the interior of a cast iron mold.
Molds of the 1850s seem to have been thin like the Coventry mold but iron like later molds. The Philadelphia museum of art has some on its website, if you search. They have a Jenny Lind mold, barrel bitters, booze, and some others I remember.


A lot of answers there, thanks for bringing it up! Here is a link to the barrel bitters mold, which is known as a treadle mold, and was operated by a single person with the use of a pedal to open and close the mold...

http://www.philamuseum.org/collections/permanent/50524.html
 

KentOhio

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Chris, since you asked for pictures...
Here's my aluminum mold. I made it in a college foundry class in 2006 and have only made 3 bottles with it. It's cast from a Clevenger scroll flask, and I added some extra embellishments.

581A45877C7C4B99B2D40C43E0E3E8FD.jpg
 

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KentOhio

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Here's the third bottle made, the one with the best impression.

7A7B73FC1C6B402BA090583EE1D1EEA8.jpg
 

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KentOhio

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Here's the base. It's still a pretty badly made bottle, haha, but neat nonetheless.

1F8E89B727DE496A91FEAB8F0AFFA0F2.jpg
 

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surfaceone

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ORIGINAL: KentOhio

Here's the base. It's still a pretty badly made bottle, haha, but neat nonetheless.

1F8E89B727DE496A91FEAB8F0AFFA0F2.jpg

Bravo Brian!

I trust you got an "A" in Foundry, and a definite "A+" in bottle blowing. Well done, sir. Thanks for showing us.

581A45877C7C4B99B2D40C43E0E3E8FD.jpg
 

AntiqueMeds

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Here's the third bottle made, the one with the best impression.

in the year 2099 collectors will see that bottle for sale on GooglBay for 10,000 Chinese plastic dollars and argue about its origins...
 

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