No idea who made the mustard, but that doesn't discourage me from loving it. The 1786 probably stands for mold # 1786.
On bottle #2, or was it #1.. does the top look like this (sans stopper, of course) ?
I emailed you a picture of both bottles. the clear bottle I would like to identify. it has no markings of any kind. Would this bottle have used a cork? Any idea what its contents was? worth anyting?
Hello rytedeal; I have down loaded erfanview for free and it is good for sizing the pictures.
> I also have a newbee file; to help new collectors identify the bottles to bring home from a dig or find. I thought you might get some tips from it.
> I see where you are new to the FORUM. I decided to write to you to make a couple of points regarding collecting old bottles. # 1 The bottles that have seam lines on the sides of the finish (the top of a bottle, will not have much value. This means to bottle collectors that the bottle was made on an ABM (Automatic Bottle Machine). The bottles that have the most value are the hand made, mouth blown bottles. These bottles will have a hand tooled finish with swirled lines around the glass. They will also have marks on the bottom that show us how the bottle was empontilled. This word refers to the application of a handle put on the bottom of the bottle so the bottle maker could apply glass to the top finish area, and tool it to the desired finish specifications. After he has done that the bottle is taken in a forked tool and the empontilled handle is tapped and broken off the bottle. The completed bottle is then placed into an annealing oven to neutralize the cords of stress put in the glass during the forming process. Failure to anneal the bottle would cause it to explode if not annealed.
This is the review that is a great study of old books and learning. Best of luck to you. I have collected glass for 73 or four years. RED Matthews .