building a tumbler

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andy volkerts

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ORIGINAL: stlouisbottles

I was wondering if anyone has a idea on saving pontil marks on soda's? I am looking for something to save the red oxide.

Always looking for St Louis Bottles: Colored Soda's, Black Glass Ales, Pepper Sauces and Colored Druggist.
Hobby craft stores sell this rubber stuff that brushes on and dries, and is easily removed afterwards, doesnt get in the way of the fingers holding the bottles, just cover the pontil area, as it stops the cleaning action very well. I use a layer about 1/8th of an inch thick, about two applications with the brush.......
 

cacarpetbagger

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ORIGINAL: stlouisbottles

Ok, if anyone else comes up with a way to save the pontils let me know.
I have used metal ducting tape. Just cut it with scissors to fit, I usually put two layers on. I have had some glue come off the tape and stick to the pontil. On gray iron pontils I just cleaned it off with acetone. Not sure what the glue might do to the red pontil?
 

tangomango

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I am in process of building a tumbler, and while doing I am cutting about a 3 ft. piece of copper wire a day. As you all know the process is taking forever. Theres gotta be a better way . . . I have seen a few older posts in regards to making a cutting jig, the problem is all require a pretty stout block of steel, which I don't have access to or the abilty to machine. I was thiking about using a large hex head bolt, 1/2 in. dia. or so, drilling the drill hole down the center, a large relief hole in the back and a perpendicular hole for the wire, then putting a nut the end to clamp the whole sha-bang into the vise. Does anyone have any other ideas of a way to do this with Home Improvement store materials. Thanks . . .
 

epackage

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If you're talking about a block to feed the wire thru while you run the drill I have seen people here make it out of wood with great success...
 

SODIGGER

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Has anyone the specs and the do's and don'ts on how to build a small reliable tumbler? Thanks
 

bamabottles

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rather than go into details that have already been posted here many times, i will just say it is best for you to search these forums using the search button. this place is a gold mine of info. After you have read the many posts regarding building your own tumbler, then come back with your remaining questions. i have one jar dr machine and one hand made machine.
 

lblackvelvet

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Re: RE: building a tumbler

Hello, I am building a tumbler and have seen the ones in this thread, Very nice job! I have to ask why several different pulleys and belts? Is it a gear reduction thing? If so, why not use a variable speed motor with only one belt to the drive roller ? I am just curious so I don't build mine this way and it not work proper. Right now I have about 200.00 in everything with two homemade canisters. I bought a 3/4 hp. variable (new) motor with pulley. I bought 10 rollers with pillow bearings 21.5'' long x 1.7/8'' in diameter. The drive roller is a 1'' stainless steel rod . The motor is a sewing machine motor that uses 60% less electric than a normal motor. Please give me your advise about not using multiple pulleys and belts. Thanks, Kevin...
 

andy volkerts

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Re: RE: building a tumbler

Multiple pulleys and belts are one way of being able to change tumbler speed, since you will need speeds of about 35-50 for square bottles and 45-55 for round bottles. using pulleys for speed changes means you can use an industrial strength motor and it will not get hot while running continuously for about a week(very important). On my tumbler I have an industrial gear motor which has a belt transmission for just about any speed, I got it very cheap at an auction $75.00 at a discontinued cannery years ago. Not everybody will be that lucky, as new it would cost a thousand bucks or better. I don't know how well your sewing machine motor will work as I suspect the tumbler load may be quite a bit more than the sewing machine load(amount of work the motor is doing). and may run hot, not a good idea. but try it and see what happens. might work quite well. A 1725-50 rpm motor can run about a hundred bucks new of good quality(dayton electric) or similar, and pulleys at a junk yard are cheap and you can try a lot of combos, belts at a automotive store are not too expensive. What you want is speed availability, cool running, and not a power hog. the 1725-50 motor and pulleys work well and give these qualities......
 

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