Payment For Labor:

[Robby Raccoon]

Royally, eh? I like that word-choice there. As you can see, most of my pavers aren't worth anything. I try to get old mortar off-- and indeed: much of it crumbles away-- but not all comes off, and many of my blocks are missing large chips. These are also outside of the era most collectors like: Mine are mainly post-1900, where as the day for creative blocks was the 1890s. The 1893 Worlds Fair Paver is a very interesting one, for example. ---- Thanks for the site-name. In Muskegon, we mainly get Ohio-made bricks.

 

[MichaelFla]

Generally, members of the IBCA (http://www.ibcabrick.com/) prefer to share bricks, not sell them. Generally, if we have an extra somebody wants, we will give it to them for the price of shipping. I have met one person who charged $1.00 per brick. Of course, I have not met all of the people there, so there may be plenty who charge for them, but the few people I have met there are always willing to share.Now, that being said... If you are willing to part with some, shoot me some prices and I'd be interested in picking some up. I can only imagine what shippiing will cost, because ... Yeah! they certainly weigh a lot!

 

[Robby Raccoon]

I read that. I was still going through different variations of my bricks and comparing them to theirs on the site. The Buckeye Block pictured is my nicest in terms of condition of the 3 that I own, and that block is going to an Ohio-State-loving Pastor as a door-stop type of gift; and the Metropolitan block pictured with the glazed Nelsonville block are gonna stay here along with at least one Streator, but I can likely find other examples of bricks-- most being damaged/covered in mortar. I know of a Harris Paver from Zanesville sitting along a sandbank-- as I have a few, I didn't brick it back with the extra weight. I keep a record of all my dig-finds (it's new, so I'm still building upon it, but it includes what they are, when from, and where found,) and I have in terms of paver-blocks/bricks at least.... 3 Buckeye Blocks, 2.8 Harris Pavers, 2 Saginaw, 1 Ottawa, a few Athens blocks, 4 Metropolitan Blocks in 2 variants, 5 Nelsonville blocks in 2 style-variants with only one being so nicely glazed, 8 20th Century Blocks, 1 Bolsen, 1 Streator Paver; and a bunch of bricks embossed with such as 1 A.P. Green/Empire D.P., 3 Standard, a damaged cornerstone-shaped Star 6, Mex-R-Co. and Mo-Rex, etc. So... a large number of 1900s pavers, blocks, and bricks. Most are in poor shape to where reading them is at times impossible. Some are only half there, such as one that I can read Guard Side on.

 

[Robby Raccoon]

To show poor shape, here are how I commonly find them:Chipped-up,Clay-overflow,Mortared-over,Severely cracked (one above the Nelsonville,)Very faint,Broken,And, my favorite way to find them: Just plain dirty. Anyone still interested? LOL. Micheal, if you are still interested, in which (other than the debossed/embossed Metro block and the Nelsonville that is very-nicely glazed)? I can get pics. I can also get more of most of these. Some in better condition that my current examples.

 

[Robby Raccoon]

Correction: With bricks, they're debossed. It's the pavers that are embossed.

 

[iggyworf]

Those are some great local bottles. Good job!

 

[Robby Raccoon]

Thanks; they really are.

 

[sunrunner]

good show . little Bear ! you prove agene a new horizon !

 

[Robby Raccoon]

Little, hmm? ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????•??•???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

 

[Robby Raccoon]

Alright, I had only not said that the top certainly was applied on the Michigan Bottling Co. bottle because it was too late of period to be applied; and I'd never seen a Baltimore Loop Seal with applied top, but it's obvious under continued examination that it is applied.Next time, I'll not go based on general, accepted facts, but will go based on what I'm seeing. I have continued looking to see that the mouth is just tooled, and I've continued to compare it to my other bottles (tooled-only and applied,) but all physical indications are that the mouth is indeed applied.I've never seen this on a Baltimore Loop Seal. I'd not have expected it of an American bottle from circa-1889. The "slop-over" on the exterior hide it in the pictures, and when looking in it you mostly see the inside ledge; but the neck inside looks like any other applied-top, and the blob wraps around that as it seen by the eye and felt when using a special tool-- it is not even semi-snug against it, which would be giving it a semi-smooth bore down. Has anyone else seen an applied-top Baltimore Loop Seal bottle?