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Doctor...i need a doctor


Nov 30, 2019
What do you think ty? Here it is with the lip cut off. Just waiting to find a replacement lip. It cut pretty clean. Weird cause it looks like a blob top now.View attachment 204560 original broken lipView attachment 204561 here is the same bottle with just the lip removed.View attachment 204562 looks like a blob top. Great radium spring water co. I think under the lip is a great place to cut. When done it should be invisible.
It's beautiful amazing job man!!! Holy fixed bottles batman!!!!


Well-Known Member
Jul 14, 2019
Probably easiest solution, and looks good (although I agree it could be mistaken to the untrained eye - like mine)


Well-Known Member
Apr 22, 2009
Port Angeles, WA
With a bit of experimentation and practice, one can repair broken glass (for display, not functional, purposes) using casting resin. The experimentation will be necessary to duplicate the original glass color with addition of casting resin dye (mostly blue with a touch of green or yellow for your example). Keep careful note of quantity of each component used to achieve desire result. Because a thin smear of resin on a surface could give misleading results, I would cast a small cylinder or pool roughly equal to the thickness of the glass to be repaired.

For a fairly quick, but somewhat rough repair, use the type of modeling clay--hobby shops and florists usually have it on hand--that does not dry and harden to make a mold directly on the bottle mouth, starting by shaping an interior plug. The exterior mold can be formed by taking an impression from an intact example of the same bottle. Carefully swab the broken surfaces of the glass with acetone or keytone (to ensure adhesion of the casting resin) before attaching the exterior mold. Stand the bottle vertically, pour the gap full of your colored and catalyzed resin mix.

After the resin has cured, pull the modeling clay mold material and clean off the residue. If you did a good job shaping the mold, the results might satisfy you at this stage. If not, the resin shape can be refined with needle files and then polished with steel wool and plastic polish such as used by fiberglass mold makers (Meguiar's® is one brand). The steel wool will not damage the glass, but one need be careful with files or sand paper to avoid the original glass and shape only the resin.

If you have a wood or metal lathe, you might find it easier to shape your mold components, especially the interior cylinder, that way; but the components will need to be smoothly finished and have a parting agent (paste wax should do for your application) applied to avoid adhesion of the casting resin. (Using oil-based modeling or florist's clay avoids the need, since it is inherently adhesion resistant.) Alternately, the outer mold could also be formed with Plaster of Paris by impression from an intact example as long as no more than 180-degrees of the circle is encapsulated. Again, the dried plaster mold will require application of mold release agent.

If I owned a damaged bottle that meant enough to me to go through the bother, I would effect the repair by turning the interior cylinder from a plastic material such as ABS or PVC, which is a natural mold release when adequately polished--I'd still apply wax though. Then, I would form the exterior mold with Plaster of Paris, which I would both wax and spray with PVA mold release. That approach would produce the best finished product.


Well-Known Member
Jan 11, 2020
New Jersey
I know what you are saying, but it would have to be some bottle. Simple cut off the lip and replace. Do you have a favorite brand of epoxy dye? I used a few but found the sun bleaches the color out in the window. For the seam, tighter is better. Then hopefully the resin bead under the lip covers it.


Well-Known Member
Apr 22, 2009
Port Angeles, WA
Too long since I actively did this sort of thing to be familiar with today's brand names. With just a few exceptions, my own bottles have been boxed up for decades; so repairs fading from ultraviolet light exposure (presumably) have not been an issue for me. However, since you mention fading in the window display, one could research or at least inquire if a given brand has any UV resistive qualities. Doubtful that the quality is important enough on hobby-grade material to even be mentioned in the product literature; but who knows?

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