Amber, SOLID GLASS, Mount Vernon Whiskey, 3" tall !

[Shagnasty]

hey red here is a pic of the bottom the bottle is 10&1/2 inches tall

 

[appliedlips]

Red,

It was definately done in a early Owens machine.It would have been made at the the old Everett bottle works that had become Ohio bottle co. or American bottle co. by this time.It was dug with whimsies marked EHE and some Ohio bottle co. stuff..The factory was located in Newark Ohio and had an Owen's machine early on.Jason would know better than I.

 

[tigue710]

very cool! The earliest Owens machines made crown top ale bottles, and like Red said the did not flip the bottle for the lip production. That is one cool piece of glass. This has really turned into an interesting subject... What I always though was fact had been debated, shattered, proven not to be so with alternate suggestions and now back to well, I guess they did! lol...

I would say after seeing the finish on that Mt Vernon it was intentionally made though. And there do seem to be a few out there. I wonder who made them when and where? I do believe the clevengers were known for obtaining old molds and making whimsical pieces with them, but then I would expect to see a lot of color, and more examples...

 

[tigue710]

ORIGINAL: GuntherHess

why waste a big glob of glass to check the embossing?

just guessing of course but it may of been more trouble to actually blow a bottle in it to check the embossing? Maybe the mold wasnt vented properly at that point? Maybe using that method gives a better image of the embossing? Just speculating...

Matt, the hicks has vent marks in the glass, and looking at the glass you can see the mold was seasoned, by the impressions, or lack there of any impressions from a fresh cut mold.

 

[RED Matthews]

Hello you early birds. Well this has been interesting, mainly because I never ran into solid glass bottles. When I was working in the glass industry we used to make solid mahogany models of bottles in our pattern shop. We varnished them and put labels and caps on the finish. They were used as salesmen's samples and also used by customers as test pieces for the bottle handling equipment. Many ended up on someone's desk, as a show off paper weight. I must have 25 or 30 of them between here and our summer home. I have shown them at the bottle club meets, and if you want - I can dig one or two out and try to post a picture here. RED Matthews

 

[baltbottles]

While we are dissgussing bottle blowing and molds. Has anyone ever run across any information about the process of iron pontiling? I've been trying to find out how this process would have worked? What kind of release agent was used if any?

Chris

 

[GuntherHess]

process of iron pontiling

I have always wondered about that process too.
I have heard some people say graphite was used as a release agent but I have seen no definate evidence to support that(although graphite is a well known high temperature lubricant). Probably another bottle urban legend
At glass temperatures iron is going to rust very fast, that rust coating may be sufficient to prevent sticking. You would want it to stick fairly well since they seemed to use that method for some heavy items. Judging from the broken glass on some open pontil marks they had to whack it pretty hard to get those bottles free.

 

[appliedlips]

ORIGINAL: tigue710

I would say after seeing the finish on that Mt Vernon it was intentionally made though. And there do seem to be a few out there. I wonder who made them when and where?

Tigue,that is the same question that I had when seeing the thread.I do know that bottles of that shape (square,lady's leg neck) appear in a 1890's catalog from the Edward H. Everett glassworks.I have never noticed and E H E marked one but believe they made those bottles but they could have been made at other factories also.

 

[RED Matthews]

Hello Chris, I am currently (over the last two years) working on a blog for my homepage on empontilling bottles. I realize that there a lot of people out there digging and collecting bottles, that don't have an extensive library of books on the bottle marks and information they need to study to know what they are seeing.
>One of the best sources for study is http://www.sha.org/bottles/index.htm This is the old Bureau of Land Management that our Mr. Bill Lindsey worked on and put together over many years. Now that he is retired he is still active - keeping it updated for us. When I first found it I used up two sets of ink cartridges and over two reams of paper printing out this treasure of information. Check it out.
> From my studies I have found that there are several types and sizes of pontil rods and punty rods used for empontilling. I am trying to cover them in my homepage work. In the case of iron pontils marks some would have you beleive they were made with plain iron rods. Some were and some were done by dipping the hot iron pontil rod in graphite paste and then in cast iron dust from the mold shop machining. These left a cast iron mark by leaving iron dust on the bottles. Some say that they have a graphite pontil left by graphite only on the rod. Some pontil marks are actually made from white lead paste that was put on the pontil rod for stickingt. Some times the heated pontil rod would be dipped in the graphite paste and broken crusshed glass chips and powder woutl be picked up to make the empontilling happen. Some pontil rods would have a disc on the end of them and only the edge of that disc would be coated with the graphite sticker and the crushed glass would be only put on the edge of the disc, leaving a large disc of glass pontil mark. This was usually found in early deep push-up bottles.

The glass furnaces usually had a working hole for reheating their glass as the worked. It is also called a Glory Hole. The gaffers would keep pontil rods and punty rods on a holding bracked so the ends would be exposed to the heat and ready for use.

Well I better call this enough before I get shut off by the timer.
RED Matthews

 

[GuntherHess]

Red, to prevent the frustrating problem of losing your text you can select your text with the mouse and use CTL C (hold down CTL key and press C at the same time) to save the text before you post. That will save the text in a buffer. Use CTL V to and paste the text in a new reply window if you lose it. Beats typing it over.
Or you can just type the text in an editor outside the forum and cut & paste it into the reply.
If you need any help figuring it out , let me know.